The Delights of Chinese Cooking

Plus a recipe for a jelly dessert from a 1970s Chinese cookbook

When I think of Chinese New Year I think of oranges¹. Boxes of them wrapped and sitting on my husband’s grandmother’s table, ready to be peeled. My son climbing onto his auntie’s lap and waiting patiently for her to pop each orange piece into his mouth. I often eat an orange while I wait my turn to eat at the table, watching as the rice is replenished, the pork swapped for beancurd and fish.

But this Lunar New Year will be different. Popo has left us, creating such a seismic hole in our lives that we cannot think of travelling to Indonesia to celebrate without her. Instead we will be at home in London, where I hope to create our own routines and rituals.

Except… I will not be cooking.

I know my limits. I have long since given up attempting to recreate the dishes popo would cook, preferring to order from our local Chinese restaurant instead. This has given me the space to realise I am actually good at something — dessert.

In recent days I have become obsessed with Taiwanese sponge cake. My son cannot believe I can make his favourite item from the dim sum menu. For CNY I will be making my own version — a red, wobbly thing — and will share it with my little family while counting all of my blessings.

The Delights of Chinese Cooking by Rebecca Hsu Hui Min

In my quest for finding the perfect dessert for Chinese New Year I found this, Almond Jelly with Fruit, buried at the back of The Delights of Chinese Cooking by Rebecca Hsu Hui Min. Chinese cuisine, beings the introduction, is one of total harmony, designed to delight the eye as well as the palate.

This, I think, is why I have always preferred Asian desserts over, say, French ones. They are not stuffy. Quite the opposite. They have been made to enjoy, to eat with your eyes, as the saying goes. And this is no more true than with this joyful dessert. Enjoy!

Almost Jelly with Fruit

2 tablespoons unflavoured gelatine (or agar agar or vege-gel)
1/2 cup cold water

1 1/2 cups water
1/2 cup sugar

1/2 cup condensed milk
1/2 teaspoon almost extract

1 (8oz) can mandarin orange sections, drained
1 (8oz) can pineapple chunks, drained

Method

Dissolve gelatine in cold water.

In a medium saucepan, mix 1 1/2 cups water with sugar and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and stir in softened gelatine. When gelatine is completely dissolved, add milk and almost extract and stir.

Chill until set, then decorate almond jelly with canned fruit, as pictured. Cut into cubes to serve. Serves 4 to 6.

1. Oranges are a symbol of good fortune and prosperity during Chinese New Year